Snaps Zero Build

The Japanese WW2 fighter. This kit is virtually all metal and available from DeAgostini at http://www.model-space.com

Snaps Zero Build

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Snaps Zero Build

Postby snapdragon » Tue Nov 15, 2011 12:06 am

Well, Most of the stuff I need is now here. My internet connection is back up (sort of) and I am already looking to alter this build from the Magazine instructions - more on that another time.

Most of the engine is here so that is where I will start. This engine is full of detail and is, I think White metal. The castings are excellent in detail and I am sure that once done the engine will be a draw in itself. I wanted to test the Lifecolor aotake paint (LC-UA-136) so initially rather then mess about with the airbrush with such a small quantity of paint needed I started painting. Although I have some Vallejo primer in a big spray tin the whole point of the original aotake paint was a preservative to prevent the airframe rusting and weakenin and the colour was (and still is) a unique one. The actual colour I would call it is turquoise. To try and get the correct colour I deciced to put it on to the metal with no primer at all. The result on the white metal is fantastic and immediatly the cylinder block parts spring to life.

Image

Most of the parts of hte cylinderblock already painted in the lifecolour aotake blue. THis matches the paint chips I have seen exactly.

Image

Dry fit of the cylinder block.

I now need to sort out the instructions from the magazines as this is spread over several issues, translate and actually glue the block together. I will probably give it another coat of paint. Once I have done that then I will start on the cylinders themselves. It appears that they are a semi-gloss black, so once glued together and filled to make the joints vanish I will paint them matt black and then varnish over with a satin finish. I will also paint the air feed part black and finish with a satin varnish while the exhaust parts I will rub down and polish up to the same "mirror" finish that the props will have.

I welcome comments etc.

James
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Re: Snaps Zero Build

Postby DJG Downunder » Tue Nov 15, 2011 8:47 am

The detail looks totally top shelf.
As you say, "the engine will be a work of art" on it's own.
I assume this is a super glue exercise as well?
It must be extremely hard to have to translate everything first, I've had a go at this myself before, so I can sympathise with you on that score.
You'll have you're work cut out, doing this one and the Stuka.
You've got my attention once again. :clap:
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Re: Snaps Zero Build

Postby chill » Tue Nov 15, 2011 8:50 am

Wow excellent detail.

Looks like another excellent model on its way.
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Re: Snaps Zero Build

Postby kwakermad » Wed Nov 16, 2011 4:32 pm

Looking forward to seeing this one progress as well as your Stuka. You are a brave man, doing two models that need translating.(Have a K)

Have you decided if you are going to motorize the engine yet?
If you cant be good, be good at it.

Builds in prodress;
Deagostini 1/8th McLaren
Deagostini 1/16th Zero
Hachette 1/16th Stuka
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Re: Snaps Zero Build

Postby snapdragon » Sat Nov 26, 2011 11:52 am

This is coming to the UK over the christmas period. At the moment it looks like it is online subscription only.

For me, Having the first 18 parts has given me a chance to see what it is like and I do recommend it to any aviation modeller. I am also considering building two so I can have a complete frame only and a complete skinned one. It does seem a shame to waste the money and issues I have already got and invested in.

I will continue to update my build to issue 18 and then wait a bit for the official UK release to catch up.

James
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Re: Snaps Zero Build

Postby snapdragon » Tue Feb 28, 2012 4:12 pm

I am restarting this project. :D

With the parts obtained through ebay italy I was able to see what this partwork is really like and "have a play". With the christmas release of the UK zero and the new release down under I have now recieved two dispatches of parts and it has given me something to actually do where I can do a bit of building but more important prime and paint a lot of parts at once. This means that I can mix a decent amount of Aotake paint for my (cheap and nasty) airbrush and not waste alot of it.

( Hitler was a painter you know. He could paint an apartment in 1 afternoon - two coats!)

Now this model is exclusivly aluminium and white cast metal (the castings are very well detailed too!) and I am starting, despite the instructions, on the port wing. THere will be plenty of time to build the engine and polish and assemble the variable pitch propeller ( Yes, it does actually alter pitch on the model). I think that I have mentioned about polishing in a post already, but I will come back to it. Heck! We have plenty of time, it's a bit aircraft and so time and care will make a stunning model.

I think that I will order back issues from Deag as two of these beasts side by side, one in just a frame and the other fully skinned and painted will look great.

At this moment in time my first coat of primer is drying. You will have to paint both - or every side - of parts (there will be exceptions to this) so my priming and painting will take time. and multiple coats. The primer I am using is Vallejo Plastic & metal primer that comes in a whopping great rattle can. I like my Vallejo paints as they have an excellent strong pigment and can be thinned down for airbrush use from the Model colour range as well as their airbrush ready colour range.

However, not every colour we need is available from vallejo so we have to look further afield and research our colours. The only model paint firm that does a 100% paint match for the airframe anti-corrosion colour for the Zero is Lifecolor. The paint colour number is UA 136 and comes in jars that are "airbrush ready" and certainly brush ready but for an airbrush you will need to use their own thinner on a 1:1 mix ratio. both come in 22ml jars so it will cover a large area. My tests on model parts show that there is no chemical reaction at all between Vallejo primer and Lifecolor paint and once parts are primed and painted and left to air dry for 24 hours ( I usually leave them for 48 - there's no rush is there???) Then no descernable difference between the finished model parts and photos of the real thing can be made colourwise.

There are several ways that this model can be displayed and one of the options is just to leave it unpainted in the aluminium colour as it comes. (I can see chill doing that !!!! :o ;) ) and putting the parts together certainly looks impressive like that, but a coat of primer and the proper airframe colour airbrushed on and the thing just comes to life!!! this you will see.

Now, At the moment I have only photographs of the unpainted parts of the port wing so far recieved. This will give you an idea of the component quality. As I write this these parts aire undergoing priming (prime one side, wait for it to dry and then prime the other side and wait for it to dry....)

I have already drilled the 0.7mm and 1mm holes where needed in the frame and main spars prior to painting, demolishing 2 0.7mm drill bits in the process!! I have also left the number tabs on rib parts for ID purposes but will remove them when the time comes to permanently fix these parts in place.

The Part photos.

These are the main port wing spars fore and aft. I have already drilled in the holes from the instructions.
Image

THis is the inner bottom port wing frame
Image

THis is the bottom outer port wing frame. Again all holes have already been drilled as per the instructions.
Image

Port ribs 1 & 2. On rib 2 you can see the space where the wing fuel tank will go.
Image

Port Ribs 3 & 4. Again you can see where the wing fuel tank will go.
Image

Port WIng ribs 5 & 6
Image

Port Wing Ribs 7 & 8
Image

Port Wing Ribs 9 & 10
Image

Rib 12 has its support & bracing spars in place. these are cut out of supplied aluminium tube and 'U' shaped bar and superglued in place. I did experiment with trying to cut notches so that I could place them within the rib as they are part of the rib support and bracing structure but I was unable to do this and just followed the instructions and glued them on to the rib. I think that this mod may be done, but not with the tools I have!!
Image


More photos after priming and painting is complete.


Comments & questions welcome

James
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Re: Snaps Zero Build

Postby charlieboy » Tue Feb 28, 2012 5:43 pm

COMMENT DELETED.

Please refrain from using strong language towards fellow posters.

If you have issues please raise your concerns through the Moderator team, as this is a family orientated forum.

Kind regards

Chill

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Re: Snaps Zero Build

Postby snapdragon » Tue Feb 28, 2012 5:58 pm

Apologies for any offence caused by my previous posts have been made both here and on model space and have been accepted by both communities unreservedly. It is all in the past and water under the bridge.


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Re: Snaps Zero Build

Postby snapdragon » Tue Feb 28, 2012 8:38 pm

Oh Chill!!!!!

Damn! Just finished loading and polishing the handbag! :laughing-rolling:

Thanks a bunch mate - still would like an apology from the gentleman!

James
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Re: Snaps Zero Build

Postby chill » Tue Feb 28, 2012 10:37 pm

Well put the handbag away James and get the Zero parts out instead!
:clap:
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Re: Snaps Zero Build

Postby Julian » Tue Feb 28, 2012 10:43 pm

I feel this will be a very watched thread for the time being
If it's Not Broke, Take it apart and make it better

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Re: Snaps Zero Build

Postby chill » Wed Feb 29, 2012 9:11 am

Any chance of a picture of the Stuka and Zero together?
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Re: Snaps Zero Build

Postby Julian » Wed Feb 29, 2012 9:13 am

Yeah that would be good snaps
If it's Not Broke, Take it apart and make it better

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Re: Snaps Zero Build

Postby DJG Downunder » Wed Feb 29, 2012 11:53 am

Hello James, excellent commentary as usual. It looks better and better the more I see of it.
I have now subscribed to the Zero down here in Oz, and eagerly await my first delivery. I also signed up for the Victory as well, despite my misgivings. There are some excellent examples detailed in the build diaries of our fellow forum members. And even though I've never built a full rigged ship, I've always wanted to. I have personally observed the differences between the Hachette and Deagostini ships by studying many build diaries, but I've decided to consider that a challenge for my beginners skills, for now at least anyway. I may change my mind after I get a few deliveries.
Once again thanks for your advice and for your excellent build diaries. I may be forced to build the Zero and Bismarck simultaneously.
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Re: Snaps Zero Build

Postby snapdragon » Wed Feb 29, 2012 12:30 pm

Forced to build? :laughing-rolling:

If you manage your space then being forced is no problem!

The solution is easy. you know the dimensions of each model. All you need is a box big enough for each model and you keep the bits for each model in the boxes. Also log a build diary and issue notes on your computer using wordpad, word etc. This means that you do not loose where you are in each build!

BTW - is the Bismarck still current down under???

James
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Re: Snaps Zero Build

Postby chill » Wed Feb 29, 2012 12:42 pm

snapdragon wrote:If you manage your space then being forced is no problem!

The solution is easy. you know the dimensions of each model. All you need is a box big enough for each model and you keep the bits for each model in the boxes. Also log a build diary and issue notes on your computer using wordpad, word etc. This means that you do not loose where you are in each build!

James


Then get a quote from your local builder for your new extension to your house!!! :laughing-rolling: :dance:
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Re: Snaps Zero Build

Postby snapdragon » Thu Mar 01, 2012 12:48 am

Not an extension, you need either a bunker or a slipway!

Tell SWMBO that you are preparing for Doomsday..... either that or encourage her to build an add-on because she wants a new kitchen/laundry etc and then add on to the top of that for a mans building cave!!!

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All buildings Down Under had to be 'Roo and Koala proof!
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Re: Snaps Zero Build

Postby DJG Downunder » Thu Mar 01, 2012 10:56 am

Hello guys,
LOL :laughing-rolling: , I see you picked up on my sarcastic sense of humour about being forced to build two at once. You're correct, The Bismarck finished here a long time ago, I got a full set of issues minus a single search binocular piece (That'll be easy to recreate) on eBay just over a year ago. I'm just pathetically slow at building it. I've got plenty of space, just a little light-on for spare time.
The roos are easy to keep out, but when its really dry they do come in and trim the grass on the front lawn occasionally. Koalas or "Drop Bears" as we sometimes call them, also easy to keep out, but pretty rare in these parts. If I could just find a way of keeping the damn possums and fruit bats out of my mango tree I'd be much happier. Unfortunatley they're protected here, so don't bother sending me a good stew receipe either.
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Re: Snaps Zero Build

Postby snapdragon » Thu Mar 01, 2012 4:01 pm

Have you thought about installing bad tempered cat in your mango tree?

Should keep local unwanted wildlife in check while not falling foul (or fowl) of the local rozzers!
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Re: Snaps Zero Build

Postby morrigan » Sun Mar 04, 2012 8:09 am

Send the possums here, we're allowed to turn 'em into stew and ug boots :twisted:
apologies for hijack :oops:

Looking forward to seeing the Zeros grow, seems to a very very nice kit indeed. On the wish list even if HWMBO is :snooty: to any more partworks, might need a :shifty:
Needs more fusewire
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